Thurs. 30 Aug., 2012 - Port Hedland to Tom Price

We left Port Hedland just after 8.30am., with a sigh of relief!  What a noisy, depressing place & how the miners have carved it up!  Noise went on throughout the night as vehicles & machines clanked & groaned continuously - even the train sounded its hooter every time it passed.  I now have more sympathy with the environmentalists - after all, how many of us would relish our own towns being similarly ravaged.  I can also subscribe to the idea that environment plays a part in shaping mood & character - I was a very different person at Eighty Mile Beach to the grumpy one who emerged from her caravan after a night at Port Hedland!

Along our route, the road trains were constant, as were other over-sized vehicles.  Gone were the quiet roads to which we had become accustomed - we were in mining country!  Dead cows, at the roadside, confirmed the increase in traffic.

We passed a dry river bed called "Obstinate Creek" & wondered just what had occurred there to suggest such a name.




Coffee Stop ( the red of the building is from the dust)



The scenery began to change dramatically as we drove further inland.  We were surrounded by big hills, which were partially covered with sparse vegetation.  Along the verges were beautiful low-growing bushes with lavender, purple & yellow flowers.

 

Finally, we reached Tom Price, which turned out to be almost twice as far from Port Hedland as we had thought.  We'd estimated 250km, but it was, in fact, 420km!  We'd had a long journey & were all tired, so it was a relief to set up camp, have dinner & go to bed.

Wed. 29th Aug., 2012 - Eighty Mile Beach to Port Hedland

Reluctantly, we left Eighty Mile Beach just before 9am & set off in the direction of Port Hedland.  During our first 10km on the dirt road that led to the highway, the caravan ahead of us suddenly stopped.  Eventually, we realised why ... a large lizard was crossing the road.  Amongst the scrub, the purple bush that we'd seen two days ago, began to appear frequently, often accompanied by a lovely bright pink one.  It's amazing how plants adapt & flourish in this fairly harsh environment.  Can't wait to see the wild flowers in the desert - hope we'll be lucky!

We stopped at Pardoo for coffee & a hot sausage roll, then continued on  to Port Hedland, which was still 150km away.  Our road ran parallel to the coast &, at times, we could see sand dunes to the right of us, in the distance.  We saw very few other vehicles - in fact, more than two would have constituted a traffic jam!

About 100km before Port Hedland, the very flat terrain was relieved by a few gentle hills.  Some small trees at the side of the road were covered in a lovely yellow blossom (maybe they were related to the wattle).  Others displayed a pink-ish tinge that may have been their Spring-time adornment.

 

We crossed the Degrey River, which would have been huge had it been full but, currently, water flowed in just one small part of the bed.

We passed through the Pardoo Mining Area, where power lines & a rail track appeared.  Huge boulders were strewn across the landscape, as though they had been thrown about by some careless giant.

At one point, we were amused to see miners' helmets on top of all the termite hills (it was to be hoped that the termites had not devoured the miners!)  The Aussie sense of humour is always just beneath the surface, waiting for an opportunity to emerge.

A train that must have been kilometres long, passed us - the trucks just kept on appearing, endlessly!  When you could see one end, the other was already far out of sight.

Port Hedland was a typical mining town, exhibiting all the trappings of the industry - cranes, piles of soil, salt & minerals, huge vehicles & denser traffic.  One over-sized load caused the only traffic jam we'd seen in months!

The town caravan park couldn't accommodate us, so we booked to return there on Sunday & Monday but drove out of town for tonight.  We found another park but were not very enamoured of it - in fact, we'd probably have given Port Hedland a miss had we known how unattractive it was.  However, a couple, who were parked next to us, joined us for pre-dinner drinks & we had a pleasant evening.

Tues. 28th Aug., 2012 - A lovely day at Eighty Mile Beach

After a good night's sleep, we got up & had an hour's walk on the beach.  It was gorgeous - warm, but with a breeze & not too 'busy'.  One or two people were fishing & a few were walking.  It was a beautiful location - peaceful, unspoiled & well-endowed with Nature's bounty.  We found pieces of coral that had been brought in by the tide & the variety of shells was amazing.  My favourites were those of the sea urchins but, unfortunately, they were very fragile & not as numerous as some.  However, a lady who is parked next to us gave me one of her urchin shells & soon after that, I found another myself.  The shells are providing great interest amongst adults & children alike & several of us are making collections.

After breakfast, Bob & Charlie put the Pajeros into 4WD & we went for a spin along the beach.  The further we drove from the caravan park, the more secluded it became & the greater the amounts of 'undiscovered' shells.  It was wonderful to enjoy the serenity of such a secluded place.

In the afternoon, a show was put on in the park to raise money for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.  Various people volunteered to entertain the rest of us & we were surprised at how talented some of them were.  Most of them sang, but one or two also played pieces of music.  The compere had an excellent repertoire of jokes & he had also written a poem for us.  Finally, there was a brief auction, a collection & a raffle.  It was a pleasant little diversion & we hope that a good sum of money was made for the RFDS.

Mon. 27th Aug., 2012 - Broome to Eighty Mile Beach

We left Broome before 8am & turned on to the Great Northern Highway in the direction of Port Hedland.  A sign warned us that there would be a danger from stray animals for the next 290km!  I suppose, if nothing else, it gave me something to worry about (Bob says I'm never happy unless I'm worrying about something).

We entered an area of seemingly endless flat plains, with hardly a tree in sight - obviously grazing land, for we saw quite a lot of cattle. 

Eventually, we came upon more vegetation, but no really big trees; mainly bush & scrub (ideal cover for stray animals!)  The road was another of the kind that seemed to have no end - it stretched, long & straight, into the distance ahead of us.

We began to see bushes with lovely purple flowers - they looked a bit like lupins, but the blooms were narrower & spikier.

After about four & a half hours, we arrived at Sandfire Roadhouse, where we stopped to fill up with diesel.  Lots of other vehicles had done the same & it was hot, dusty & crowded.  This obviously affected some people's mood - we met a horrible woman, who accused us of jumping ahead of her in the fuel queue.  However, Bob was a good match for her & he stood his ground - good on yer, Bob!

Soon after refuelling, we arrived at the turn-off for Eighty Mile Beach.  There followed a 10km drive along an unmade road ... we encountered stones, rocks, ridges, ruts & a phenomenal amount of thick, red dust which covered every surface & filled every crevice.  However, the situation of our caravan park more than compensated for all our discomforts - it was a lovely grassy area that ran parallel to one of the most magnificent beaches we'd ever seen.  Ivory-coloured sand stretched into the distance further than the eye could see & underfoot were masses of beautiful shells.  A pelican glided just above the water looking for fish &, when we tested the ocean, tentatively, we were delighted to discover that it was warm!  We should have known ... it was the Indian Ocean.

Sun. 26th Aug., 2012 - Our last day in Broome

The temperature was 35/36C & Bob had his first swim!

Preparations got underway for the big exodus, tomorrow.  We stocked up on food & water, charged up our batteries, did the washing & cleaned the van.  We're now looking forward to more adventures & pastures new!  I guess we've developed the "itchy feet syndrome".  It's 35/36C here today, so time to move on ... next stop, "Eighty Mile Beach".

In the early evening, we went into town with Judy & Charlie & had a delicious roast dinner at a restaurant called "Roey's"

21-26 Aug., 2012 - Time out from the nomadic existence!

Our last few days in Broome were relaxed & varied - Bob & Charlie had a game of golf; Judy & Charlie had early morning walks on the beach; & Judy, Charlie & I swam most days.  We all loved the sunsets, the camels and the barra 'n chips!

Cable Beach

It is becoming hotter & slightly humid as Spring approaches.  The caravan park is gradually emptying, as people begin to move south.  Two owls have taken up residence in the palm trees at the pool - do they know that Spring is on its way & will they nest there?

Bob has bought two new tyres for our car in preparation for the long journey ahead.  He has also replaced our mobile phone, as the old one fell into the washing-up water (that wouldn't have happened if we'd had a dishwasher!)  Wed., 25th was an expensive day, to say the least!

                                                                                                                                                                 



Goodbye  Broome

Some of the little phrases, seen on the backs of caravans, have amused me, although Judy has threatened that she won't park next to us if we put one on our van!  Below are just a few of my favourites:

                                                                                

  Serenity before Senility

  Adventure before Dementia

  Cook & Chauffeur

  Livin' the Dream

  Cos We Can!

  Christine the Cruiser

  Fossils on the Run - Cherrio Kids!
  Dunna Runna